The next step in building the feet was to do the styrene skins. He is a picture of the initial state of the foot. The screw at the top are going to be used to hold the battery boxes, I removed them before starting to attach the skin.
For the curved side I place a piece of styrene tight to that side, traced the shape and then cut it larger then needed. To glue the piece on I used two-park epoxy. I generally use epoxy when the joint needs to be strong and there is a small surface to glue to, both of which are a concern for this part. Initially I just glued the styrene to the large flat area at the top since it was easy to clamp this firmly. Once that part dried I lifted the skin, and applied epoxy to the remaining surfaces. The trickiest part of this was hold the skin until it dried.
As you can see in the following pictures I used a combination of clamps, tape and even a spray paint can to hold the skin tight to the frame.
Once the glue was dry and I removed the clamps I applied some more epoxy along the seams on the inside of the foot to further strengthen in.
Here is what it looks like after unclamping. I next used a Dremel to sand the styrene flush with the frame.
The skin on the flat side of the foot was much easier. Here you can see the piece with the layout marks. The area between the lines needs to be cut out to form a groove. I first tried doing this cut after gluing the piece in place, but it turned out to be much easier to make the cuts ahead of time.
I started by gluing the inside piece first. Since this piece has a large surface area I used White Gorilla Glue for this. I used tape to prevent it from sliding until I could get some clamps on.
Once that was dry I attached the outside part using epoxy which I find holds better with the smaller surface area. I don’t have pictures of that.